Some Tips from the Top
Trimming the Front
By Ched Proctor
Southport, Connecticut Fleet 126, Cedar Point Yacht Club
1993 and 1994 North American Champion
(From Racing the Lightning)
For many of us skippers it is much easier to see what
is happening with that big sail in front of our faces than the little
one at the front of the boat. However, we know from computer flow
programs, that the jib provides 80 percent of any sailplan’s driving
force. That being the case, it seems to make sense to give some careful
consideration to the person in the front of the boat who trims the jib.
But what does this person look for, in order to trim the jib to best
affect?
The easiest way to get the correct settings for the jib is simply to
look at your sailmaker’s tuning guide. Set the jib lead to his
measured position from the headstay, usually in the 96-100” range.
Then simply pull the jib in until the top batten lines up with the
spreader tip or a little inside, whatever the trim guide for that
particular jib suggests. This is usually good enough to get close to the
ideal trim for most conditions. But what are some of the finer points we
are considering when we come up with these numbers?
Here are some things that go through my mind. First of all let’s
think about how it works. The jib luff is the furthest forward of the
boat’s center of lateral resistance, while the leech of the main is
the furthest aft. The lift contributed by these two parts of the
sailplan, must be in balance or the boat will want to turn rather than
going straight. These forces must be balanced about the centerboard. If
they are not, the helmsman can feel it in the form of excessive weather
helm or a lack of any helm when the boat is heeled to the optimum angle
for the conditions. We want to trim the sails so there is only enough
weather helm to make the boat easy to steer. When we go out for our
prerace tune-up, we sail up-wind initially and see how the boat feels.
If the helm is too heavy we may be trimming the jib too eased, or the
main may be trimmed too hard. So we make that necessary correction.
Frequently people refer to the criteria that the luff should break
equally, top to bottom, as you head up. This is a good starting point,
but the Lightning often performs best with the jib trimmed so the top
breaks a little early, particularly in rough water.
The helmsman and jib trimmer need to work together to
maintain the best windward performance. We always use the luff
tell-tales as a guide. The leeward one should be flowing all the time.
The weather one can be allowed to lift intermittently, or in heavy
conditions and smooth water, continually. In lighter conditions, the jib
trimmer should always have the sheet in his or her hand.
Whenever the boat feels slow, or the leeward telltale
starts to stall out, the sheet is eased slightly to keep flow over the
leeward side of the jib, as indicated by a steady leeward telltale.
Then, whenever there is a puff, the sheet can be trimmed to facilitate
higher pointing through the puff. In full hiking conditions the sheet
isn’t adjusted as much and the forward crew hikes. However, it is
important to get the boat set up with jib trim that properly balances
the helm. If the lead is too far forward, the lower part of the jib
becomes too full. This situation is recognizable because the bottom of
the jib will tend to luff, and the helm will be excessively heavy. This
can also mean the main is overtrimmed.
When the lead is too far aft, the bottom of the jib
is too flat. If this is the case, to keep the leeward telltale flowing,
you have to push on the tiller or if you ease the sheet out until it is
easier to keep the leeward telltale flowing, the top of the jib is
continually luffing. Once again, I feel that it is bad if the leeward
telltale ceases to flow, but the weather telltale should be flying
slightly up about 50% of the time in anything but light air with flat
water.
Just a word about the angle of the top batten. I’ve
usually had the best performance, when the top batten is nearly parallel
to the boats centerline or just slightly open from the position. The
jibs that are flatter in the head like to be more open so the top batten
points more to leeward.
This touches on the basics of lead position and sheet
tension. In the finer tuning category we can get into headstay sag and
luff tension, but that is a subject for another time.